No judge, members of his family, or students shall exhibit or act as agents, representatives in any capacity, or handlers of a horse, mule, or burro, in any approved class at a show or contest at which he/she is officiating; nor any horse be shown under a judge if that judge has been owner, trainer, agent in any capacity, or conditioner of that horse within the previous thirty (30) days. If such a horse, mule, burro is entered in a show, its entry fee shall be refunded and it is not to be exhibited. A judge may be suspended from the list of approved judges for infraction of this rule at the ruling of the Executive Committee.

Burros/Donkeys may be divided for halter classes at the show management’s discretion into gender under the following definitions:

Jack - an intact (uncastrated) male over the age of 2 years.

Jennet or Jenny - a female donkey

Gelding or John - a castrated male donkey over the age of 2 years.

Yearling - donkey born in the previous calendar year (i.e., 2002 foals are yearlings in 2003).

Weanling/foal - donkey born in the current calendar year (2003 foals)

*Mules are defined as the result of a donkey crossed on a horse. Both mules (jack x mare) and hinnies (stallion x jennet) will show together under the general definition of Mule. Male mules and hinnies (horse
mule/horse hinny) over the age of 24 months must be castrated in order to show, this is consistent with American Mule Association Rules.

Juniors/youths under the age of 18 years MAY NOT show a Jack in ANY class.

Animals in halter classes should be judged on conformation, soundness and
condition, which includes turnout and fitting (presentation of animal).

No artificial aids for control (such as canes, whips, poppers, plastic bags, show sticks, clickers) are allowed during halter classes for either donkeys or mules.

Halters may be made of leather, nylon or rope, but should fit well and be clean and neat. No preference is given to amount or lack of silver or decoration.

Jacks over the age of 12 months must be shown with a stud chain under the chin, over the nose or through the mouth, or in a stallion bit/bridle. If animal warrants, 2 handlers may be used. Both handlers must be properly attired and have a chain lead. Both handlers must stay at the head of the animal at all times. Judges /ring stewards
may dismiss any animal that does not have proper lead lines.

Stud chains may be used on jennets or geldings at the handlers discretion. This should not count down on points.

English style snaffle Bridles may be used instead of halters where attire and locale warrant. The reins or lead of a halter or bridle should be carried folder (not coiled or rolled) in the opposite hand of the handler and not allowed to trail free.

Body clipping of animals is not required, but the animal should be groomed neatly. Presentation should account for only a small portion of the point score in conformation halter classes. Manes may be worn long and upright, long and hanging, banded, clipped, or roached. Tails may be natural, clipped, banged, or belled but not braided for halter classes.

The use of tail extensions is strongly discouraged on donkeys and mules.

Hooves may be natural, glossed or blacked, but should be trimmed neatly to proper length.

The handler should strive to position the animal with the lead shank and gentle cues forward of the shoulder. Excessive use of hands on the animal to set up the animal may be penalized at the judges discretion.

Touching the animal with a foot above the coronet band of the hoof should be considered a fault.

Western attire: a western long-sleeved shirt, with or without vest; a short, fitted jacket or longer blazer; western hat; jeans or slacks; boots and a belt.

English attire (either huntseat or saddleseat): breeches or saddleseat pants; a long or short-sleeved riding shirt with a choker and stock pin or a tie; a jacket (either a huntseat or a daycoat); tall boots or jodphur boots; and a hunt helmet or derby.

"Coon jumping is an event unique to Long Ears. The event originated from night time coon hunters needing to move their pack strings over fenced fields. Many fences were of wire and could not be taken down as stone or wood can. Often the hunter would remove his coat and lay it down over the wire in order to "flag it" for his animals to see, then jump his mules over the fence one by one. Let it be pointed out here that only donkeys and mules "Coon jump." Horses do not as it is physically impossible for them. Unlike a horse show jumper or hunter who most often canters or gallops up to a jump, coon jumpers must take the obstacle from a standing start. Therefore, those of you wishing to do a little "coon jumping" seen at a show, please keep this in mind."

"Open to both donkeys and mules/hinnies, though at most shows, the two breeds will compete separately. Also unique in that size does not matter; miniatures to saddle types/sizes Long Ears compete equally in their own class. But no matter the size or breed type, all Long Ears tend to crouch down on their hind legs, raise up their forelegs, then "rocket" over the jump. Some mules even like to "rev-up" with their forefeet, dancing until their springs are wound up tight, before catapulting themselves over the jump like a cat. Often, Long Ear heads will go up as their bodies come down on the opposite side of the bar, reaching down with their forefeet while tucking up the hind ones. Some animals like to stay close to the bar as they jump, while others prefer lots of daylight between their feet and the bar."

"A free standing jump is required (no wing standards please), with a sliding vertical rail or crossbar supported by pins/pegs which drop at hard contact. Bar must fall outward from the pins/pegs in the same direction as travel (meaning away from the animal). The horizontal width of the jump must be a minimum of 8 feet with 2 inch increments on the dowel holes, the bottom at 30 inches, and top at 72 inches in height. A blanket, quilt, or similar covering is NOT mandatory but if used, must be laid over the bar for the animal to use to help it gauge height. Long Ears must jump from inside a marked box (chalkline or ground poles) measuring 10 to 12 feet square.

First jump is of median chest height, continually raised after every round of jumps. Two attempts are allowed at each height, time to begin with a hoof in the box at 90 seconds time allowance. Failure to clear bar after second attempt knocks that entrant out of contention. Animal must pause inside box BEFORE jumping (there are no running starts allowed). Handler may stand on either side of the jump but must hold lead rope at all times. Loose animals/loss of control is automatic disqualification. Refusal to jump also grounds for disqualification.

In actual show ring competition, the animal is normally shown either bareback or under saddle (saddles ARE NOT required, but if used, the stirrups must be tied up across the seat). However, there are cases of specialized shows for friendly competition among Pack Outfitters, where animals are jumped in full pack gear, over the same freestanding jumps that barebacked & saddled animals are. Or, a nice twist in a more natural setting COULD be your model donkey or mule in full pack gear, negotiating a fence somewhere out in the boonies.

Back to our arena setting, no changing/adjusting of tack allowed once inside the coon jump ring/box. Halters are more commonly used for headgear, though bridles are allowed. If using halter, chain through the mouth or over/under the nose is prohibited. Also, no leg protection is used.

The handler may be dressed in English, Western, or Loggers attire.

(The following information was supplied by Ginny Freeman)

Timed packing – In-Hand

This is a results based competition and the rules are simple. The swamper (helper) may only hold the critter and not help the drover (you).

Before hand, the competitors shall assemble and deem what is fair. The approved objects must be packed before hand on their critters before entering the arena. The drovers all must unpack their panniers before the competition begins, and lay the items out on the ground.

To the clock, one at a time, the drovers must pack the panniers, put them on the sawbuck or decker, top with supplies and cover with their mantee, then lash their menagerie down. The fastest time, and neatest pack wins. The type of hitch used is at the competitors discretion.

"According to the book, "Packing & Outfitting: A Field Manual," by Oliver C. Hill, Packing is thought to have originally developed some 700 years ago with Genghis Khan. Khan and his infamous band of Mongolian nomads were a tough bunch who traveled fast and used hit and run tactics to conquer a world, thereby necessitating the need for great skill and knowledge in packing and transporting captives and loot.

After Khan 200 years later, the Spaniards embarked upon the New World with their own pillage tactics, also necessitating a way to transport cargo and supplies. In Europe, pack trains of mules, horses, and donkeys were used to transport merchandise over roads too undeveloped for vehicles.

From Cortez’s landing in 1519 to Jim Bridger's trapping expeditions in the Rockies, history brought forth an new era of trappers, traders, hunters, prospectors, and even pioneers headed for the great American West. During the Gold Rush days, ore, supplies, and machinery were packed into rugged country, thus making packing into a trade and honest profession. Even the American Indian contributed further to this art with their clever use of dogs for backpacking and horses & mules for travois hauling."

"Horses and Mules are the more commonly used animals, as they can carry heavier loads plus additionally alternate as a riding animal. Burros (or donkeys) cannot travel as rapidly as it's horse or mule cousin, but more than make up for it with their calmer dispositions. Donkeys work well if the packer plans to walk and lead by foot rather from atop a saddle horse. The llama is likewise becoming a popular pack animal, but it too requires being led afoot rather than from the saddle.

When selecting a pack animal, keep in mind that he/she should be stout and rugged, with sound legs and feet, and the gentlest of dispositions. In the case of mules and horses, a fairly prominent (but not overly prominent) set of withers is desirable to keep a saddle and pack from slipping side to side. And although, any size animal is certainly trainable to packing, most pack animals stand 14 hands for easier load up time."

"With so many civilizations contributing to the development of packing, it stands to reason that modern day equipment has evolved to the point of competing pack saddle designs, hitches, knots, leather versus webbing (nylon) use, etc. "

"Begin by padding the animal well with a thick saddle pad and/or blanket, so that there is good padding between him and that load of dead weight you're about to pack on. Sheepskin sleeves over the cinch will greatly reduce sores and galls as well.

"Ok, the load is packed on, the manta (tarp) is on, and the whole works is ready to be lashed down in place on the animal. This is accomplished with rope (or in the case of models, loads of long pieces of string) with one of following basic hitches or slings:"

The McClellan saddle was originally named after the Lieutenant who created it just prior to the Civil War. It was the standard issue Army saddle used until the mechanization era, being redesigned several times for function and comfort.

There are several versions of these, though few of the true original Civil War era. Original versions will have a hooded leather wooden stirrup while the later versions will sport the more basic English metal type hardware. Also the originals are hornless (a swell yes, but no horn) while later versions do have a horn. In addition, originals are single-cinched while later versions are double-cinched. Some are rigged with a figure 8, quarter rigging strap through the front and rear rings in order to make it more easily adjustable for the large sliding rigging-ring to which buckles by means of another adjustable strap. It sounds more complicated than it really is.

Other standard equipments with this saddle inlude a crupper, coat straps, and sweat leathers. McClellans are usually russet in color, but black ones have been known to exist. McClellans are still made today, though mostly for mule folk as these generally fit mule backs better than the revolutionary Quarter Horse type trees.

Cruppers should be custom fit, and lie square center & flat atop the dorsal line of the animal. It begins at the base of the saddle where the strap first attaches itself to a special ring under the cantle, then runs down the dorsal line of the animal, following the rump crease where the leather then splits, circling under the tail, and attaching back onto itself on top (dock area). If the tail is pulled upright slightly, then the crupper is on too tight. If it dangles, it's too loose. Cruppers should lie flat and snug.

Generally speaking, Donkeys in Western type classes are ridden under traditional style western saddles, but also in McClellan or Australian Stock type saddles. The latter saddles being used seems to have mostly to do with what part of the US the competitor is from. These will be the ones most often seen with the additional crupper or britchen strap rigging. The same holds true usually with Mules and Hinnies, although the more traditional type western saddles with round or square skirts, will also be seen.

In English or gaited type classes, Donkeys as well as Mules and Hinnys will use regular Huntseat or Saddleseat type saddles, just like horses. Even in these conditions, you'll commonly see a crupper attached from the back of the huntseat saddle directly to the tail among longears. Britchin' straps however are only used on western type saddles.

Cruppers (and britchen gear) are normally made out of leather and have a series of rings, buckles and snaps, as illustrated on the left. When opting for a full britchen strap rigging, the crupper used will only be a partial one, beginning at the saddle base, running topside along the dorsal or spine, but stopping short of the tail. Instead, it attaches itself to a special heavy leather ring midpoint between the hips, where long leather hip straps hang down each side of the animal, the bottom ends (of the hip straps & inside flank strap) coming together on the underside of the wide rump strap, connecting it with the back strap or partial crupper located topside.

The yoke itself fastens underneath the back jockey of the western Aussie saddle, with the ring, snap, and keeper following behind in ascending order.